An Ecological Survey of the Gill Beck Valley 2021

Friends of Gill Beck Valley


The valley covers an altitudinal range from 50m at the confluence of the Gill Beck and River Aire up to 385m at the twelve apostles on the watershed of Rombald’s Moor.

The catchment of the Gill Beck

Unsurprisingly, the whole area has been heavily utilised over the centuries; since sporadic settlement in Mesolithic times, through to the extensive woodland clearances of the Mid-Bronze Age (around 2000 BC) and enclosures from at least 1610 onwards (shown in a map of Baildon Moor by Robert Saxton of that date Coal was extracted from shallow pits at many sites in the Baildon moor area from at least the 14th century until the end of the nineteenth -having a .  The settlements of Low Hill, Sconce and Moorside subsisted on coal mining, quarrying, textiles, arable and livestock farming.  In recent decades, the former predominantly agricultural landscape has become increasingly varied with leisure use for Golf Courses and horse paddocks. 

Baildon Moor was purchased by the Bradford Corporation in 1899 to provide recreation for the populace and remains a ‘urban common’.

Rombald’s Moor is designated as an SSSI as part of the South Pennine Moors SPA/SAC (Special Protection Area, Special Area of Conservation) .  This creates an obligation on planners to ensure that development within 7km does not adversely affect the area.

To the best of our knowledge, no other parts of the valley are protected by any designation conferring statutory protection although there are some Local Wildlife Sites (LWS) and most is ‘green belt’.

There’s a good variety of habitat types compressed into the study area.  This review aims to look at each in turn and highlight aspects of particular significance.

Whilst it might be said that the Gill Beck catchment is nothing ‘special’, and maybe 70 years ago it wouldn’t have been; it must be borne in mind that we find ourselves in a situation where nature has declined to the point where there are fewer than 300 pairs of Curlew in the whole of England south of Birmingham, the number of UK Grey Partridge breeding pairs has declined by 64% in just 23 years from 1995 to 2018, Cuckoos by 75% and we have lost 97% of our wild flower meadows since the 1930s.  The Gill Beck valley, which has all of these and more, represents a contiguous area of relatively wild country: a priceless resource on the doorstep of almost 2,000,000 people in the Leeds-Bradford conurbation.


The description of the South Pennine Moors SSSI, which encompasses Hawksworth moor describes ‘extensive areas of blanket bog occur on the upland plateaux which are interspersed with species-rich acidic flushes and mires. There are also mosaics of upland wet and dry heaths and acidic grasslands.’

Most of that part of Rombald’s moor which drains into the Gill Beck catchment remains managed grouse moor with sheep grazing, predator-control, drainage and regular burning. 

The drainage network has been constructed to channel water, for example from Horncliffe Well, to Intake Gate and thus to Reva Reservoir.  

Ling Calluna vulgaris is the dominant plant species.  Also Crowberry, Bilberry and Sedges.

Heather moor on Baildon Moor was probably never so heavily managed and, in places, is rapidly giving way to Bilberry, Bracken, Hawthorn, Silver Birch, Rowan and Willow. Grouse have declined to become only occasional visitors.

The top of Baildon Moor is dominated by Purple Moor-grass Molinia caerulea.  Molinia-dominance has become an increasing issue for landscape managers since this species tends to form a bland monoculture.  The reasons for its rise to problematic levels are complex but probably involve sheep-grazing in the absence of other large herbivores, increasing nitrogen pollution and higher atmospheric carbon dioxide.

Since sheep have been removed the moor now has an issue with encroaching Bracken! Control measures have ensued.

For many decades Baildon Moor has played host to numerous human visitors.  In the early 20th century crowds of 30-50,000 Bradfordians regularly gathered there on weekends and holidays to enjoy the surroundings.  Walking, cycling, dog-walking, horse-riding and golf continue to be significant environmental factors; although obviously integral to its role in public amenity. 

Rombald’s moor supports populations of Merlin and Golden Plover of international importance.  Cuckoo (parasitising Meadow Pipit), Reed Bunting, Stonechat, Whinchat and occasionally Short-eared Owls are hanging on.

Bilberries on Baildon Moor support the caterpillars of Green Hairstreak butterflies.

Plant communities Baildon Moor: these include Bog Asphodel, Sundew, Lesser Twayblade orchid and more.


A wide range of agricultural practices have resulted in a variety of floristic communities

Unimproved upland grassland covers the Reva Hill area, High Eldwick and part of Baildon Moor.  This is upland acid grassland and upland rush pasture which is currently grazed by sheep and, in parts, also by horses and cows. There are Gorse, Willow, Rowan and Holly.

A Hare on Upland Acid Grassland in the upper valley

Here, there are still Curlews, Lapwings, Snipe and Grey Partridge.

This upland grassland is important for breeding Lapwing, Curlew, Grey Partridge, Snipe and Skylarks.

Improved pasture:  Most of the pasture which dominates the valley is improved to a greater or lesser extent.  Much of it has little floristic diversity, other than in the field margins, although some relief from the sea of Rye Grass is provided by Red and White Clover, Vetches, Dandelions, Daisies and Buttercup.

Improved pasture with Ash trees around the abandoned Shrog’s Farm at Moorside

Horse paddocks and Tong Park: represent relatively unimproved lowland pasture -which has now become a very scarce habitat.  Here there are Harebells, Yellow Rattle, Birdsfoot Trefoil, Oxeye Daisy, Ragged Robin, Devil’s Bit Scabious, Red Bartsia, Teasel, Pignut, Knapweed, Betony, Marsh rchid, Hedge Mustard, Pineapple Mayweed, Buttercup.

Tong Park: the horses are essential to maintaining the flower-rich meadows
A carpet of Yellow Rattle at Tong Park in June
By late July Tong Park has gone purple with Knapweed
In the absence of insecticides in the valley, diverse insect life survives
Small Copper. The valley has several important butterfly species including Purple, White-letter and Green Hairstreaks

Field boundaries:

Drystone walls remain a characteristic feature.  Lower down there are also hedges.  Some of these have previously been layed and must be quite old.  In some areas new hedges have been planted.

Stoats are common in the many drystone walls
…and that’s why!
Walls and the mature trees which punctuate them are home to Little Owls
Hawthorn is the other tree typical of hedge lines and dry-stone walls.
In the distant past some of these Hawthorn hedges were managed by periodic laying

In less intensively-farmed areas there are broad expanses of Bramble and Rosebay Willowherb.

Bramble beds on Hollins Hill Golf Course.  This stretch hosts breeding Lesser Whitethroat, Whitethroat, Garden Warbler and has held singing Grasshopper Warbler.
Lesser Whitethroat, an adult carrying food in the same area

Butcher’s Broom on Strait Lane at Hawkstone Farm, Harebells, Foxglove, Dandelion, Hogweed, Cow Parsley, Coltsfoot, Dog Rose.  There are isolated patches of primroses and cowslips.

Cowslips on the north side of the valley


The woods down the centre of the valley consist of semi-natural deciduous woodland.  Spring Wood, Willy Wood, Birks Wood, Roundabout Wood in the lower part of the valley.  Old Wood, West Wood, Great Wood (north of Faweather Lodges), Honey Joan Wood, Howden Wood (at Sconce) above the road bridge at Mill Lane. 

Spring Wood from the south.  The long low hill in the mid-ground is a glacial drumlin

Additionally, there are sizeable pockets at Hazel Head Wood on the Baildon side of the valley.  Hollins Hall and Elm Wood on the Guiseley side. The Odda and Hawksworth Hall on the northern watershed.

This woodland shows a gradation from flatter, less acidic areas where Pedunculate Oak, Sycamore, Silver and Downy Birch, Holly and Alder (along banksides) are the main trees, along with a few Rowan, Yew and Field Maple.  Holly Ilex aquifolium is showing strong regeneration in the face of the onslaught of the many Roe Deer. In some areas there are quite large contiguous stands (for example just west of Hollins Hall). 

An old Field Maple at Hollins Hall
Mature Ash trees in what was pasture and is now Driving range at Hollins Hall
Holly wood, Hollins Hall

The herb layer in these areas tends to be dominated by bramble.  Bluebells and Wild Garlic are plentiful, along with wood millet, hedge woundwort and ferns.

On the steeper valley sides a more acidic soil is found.  In this area sessile and hybrid oaks are more common, along with Silver and Downy Birch, Holly, Wych Elm and Hazel.  Parts of Spring Wood have old stools of coppiced Hazel which must have been managed in the past.

Old Hazel stools in Spring Wood…coppicing has long since ceased

All of these areas are shown as wooded on OS map dated 1851 and remain so today.

Around these are various plantings comprising a wide range of native and introduced species: for example on Hollins Hall (dating from early 2000s) and Bradford Golf course (from early 1900s).  Species include Ash, Hazel, Larch, Lombardy (Black) Poplar, Beech, Silver Birch, Scots Pine, Guelder Rose.

Beech (Fagus sylvatica) has been planted along the line of the aqueduct at Tong Park, on the Odda/Hawksworth Hall, Bradford Golf Club and at Hollins Hall. 

Sycamore (Acer pseudoplatanus), often magnificent mature specimens, is also widespread and locally frequent, often on slightly more neutral soils. There are many along drystone walls in pasture.

Ash is the characteristic tree of many drystone wall field boundaries, pasture and is also present within woodland. 

Wild Cherry is scattered, often around buildings.

Along watercourses here are frequent Alder (Alnus glutinosa) with particular Alder Carr below the railway viaduct.

Goat willow (Salix caprea) and grey sallow (S. cinerea).

Regeneration is generally good among the broadleaved species, with oak, beech, birch, rowan and the sporadic ash all showing good spontaneous growth. No active regeneration was observed among the conifers.

There is plenty of dead standing and fallen timber throughout the woodland.  This reflects the fact that no large-scale timber extraction occurs.  As a result, fungi and invertebrate populations are quite diverse and numerous.

Wood pasture at the head of Spring Wood: dead wood in most parts of the valley is allowed to lie undisturbed -home for arthropods and fungi
King Alfred’s cakes fungus on Ash

Other shrub species comprise hawthorn Crataegus monogyna, Blackthorn and Elder Sambucus nigra.

Honeysuckle in many hedges/wood margins.  Many mature trees have Ivy, often a profuse covering.

Red Admiral on Ivy.  There are a lot of ivy-covered trees in the valle

It’s an indispensable resource for insects late in the year

Herbaceous layer relatively un-depleted by grazing deer: Wood Anenome, Wood Sorrel, Yellow Pimpernel, Wild Garlic, Bluebell.  Locally, Green Alkanet.

Wild Garlic in April

Bluebells in May

Diversity of woodland birds is not what it could be: the wooded areas are perhaps just too small and isolated to support long-term viable populations of Redstart, Wood Warbler or Pied Flycatcher.  Spotted Flycatcher, Marsh Tit, Willow Tit, Lesser Spotted Woodpecker and Hawfinch which may have been present in relatively recent times have all experienced severe national decline.

Buzzard Sparrowhawk, Green and Great Spotted Woodpecker are all present.  Kites have obviously become common and seem likely to breed.

Roe Deer are plentiful: their tracks are everywhere.  Hares also use the woods…especially in hard winters. 


On Baildon moor there is extensive Bracken and Hawthorn. Blackthorn thickets occur on the Odda, Hollins Hall golf course and at Tong Park.

Blackthorn flowering on Sunny Brow, Tong Park.  This is an important early season nectar source
Meadow Pipit in Bracken on Baildon Moor

Elder, Crab Apple, Ground Elder, Brambles, Gorse, Broom, Bracken.

Water bodies:

There are plenty of man-made water bodies ranging from small coal pits on Baildon Moor up to the reservoirs at Reva and Weecher.

Reva and Weecher reservoirs: these cold, deep waters have few breeding birds.  Notably Oystercatchers.  They do provide roost sites for gulls, ducks and geese.

Hawksworth New Dam:

Tong park Dam: water lilies, Purple Loosestrife

Eel captured in Tong Pak Dam
Gadwall on Tong Park Dam

Frog Pond at Tong Park: Yellow Flag, Willow

Red Brick Dam: Willow

Hollins Hall golf club ponds: Bulrush

Reservoir at High Eldwick

Toads mating in the ‘frog pond’ at Tong Park.  This typically follows a few weeks after the Frogs

The Valley is home to good populations of Common Toads, Common Frogs and Smooth Newts.


Marsh at Tong park (2 areas) Bulrush Typha latifolia, Marsh Marigold, Marsh Thistle, Angelica, Himalayan Balsam, Hemlock water dropwort, Ragged Robin, Water Mint

Marsh in Bartle Gill at Tong Park, Ragged Robin and Marsh Thistle

Also above Weecher.

Blanket bog and coal pits on Baildon Moor

Water courses:

The Gill Beck and its tributaries remain in good condition and relatively pollution-free in post-industrial times.

The Gill Beck

A good range of riparian fauna includes Dipper, Kingfisher, Grey Wagtail (all of which have bred), Grey Heron, Otter (occasionally), Mink, Brown Trout and Bullhead.  The only crayfish in the lower part of the beck are invasive Signal Crayfish Pacifastacus leniusculus

Dipper on the Gill Beck at Denby’s Mill (Paul Marfell)
Signal Crayfish

The invertebrate fauna of the beck includes good numbers of Mayfly.  Mass hatching on fine spring days remains a feature.

Mayflies over the Gill Beck

Bankside vegetation of Gill Beck: Moschatel, Wood Anenome, Lily of the Valley, Wild Garlic, Daffodil, Butterbur, Crosswort,

Bankside plants along the Gill Beck at Tong park: Butterbur, White Dead-nettle, Bluebell, Cleavers

Bankside smaller tributaries: Meadowsweet, Brooklime and, in shaded areas, Opposite-leaved Golden Saxifrage, Fool’s Watercress, Brooklime, Great Burnet Sanguisorba officinalis, Marsh Marigold Caltha palustris, Meadowsweet, Cuckoo Flower, Opposite-leaved Golden Saxifrage

Opposite-leaved golden Saxifrage: the characteristic species of the shaded, woodland becks

Industrial sites:

Tong Park Mills: Buddleia, Purple Toadflax


There are no large settlements in the valley (this being a large part of its attraction).  The village at Hawksworth and scattered farms and houses.

Summary of significant features:

Ecologically, the most important habitats and floral/faunal communities are the wild flower meadows at Tong Park, the upland areas of Rombald’s Moor with its adjacent unimproved acid grasslands and the relatively unspoiled Gill Beck itself.

However, by virtue of being a large contiguous stretch of semi-natural habitat from the Aire Valley to the top of Rombalds Moor crossed by only two roads, the valley is important as a recreational and aesthetic resource for people who live around it and enjoy its natural spaces.  There is a good network of public rights of way.  It’s not a coincidence that the area was a popular holiday and leisure destination in the days before air travel. What it lacks is the focus of an area (‘nature reserve’) managed primarily with conservation outcomes in mind.

Potential threats and opportunities:

1: It would be a concern if land use at Tong Park were to change away from horse/mixed grazing.  The current regime is ideally-suited to the maintenance of the diverse meadows.  Further encroachment by housing would also reduce its value.  Hopefully, the present long-term lessees will continue to use the area.  If not, and if the opportunity arose to manage all or part of this area for conservation then that would be an opportunity which would be interesting to look at: if a team of people with the capacity to take on such a job were available.  The area is intensively used for recreation by local people and is not big enough to support much in the way of larger fauna.  However, it would be invaluable as an educational resource.

2: Similarly, the extensive mixed grazing of the Reva Hill area depends (to the best of our knowledge) on the management methods of a very few landowners.  Again, it’s a big undertaking but such an area could be a valuable mixed-use conservation/farming project. 

3: As is the case for intensively-managed grouse moors generally, biodiversity, carbon sequestration and flood alleviation on Hawksworth and Bingley Moors would benefit from reduced drainage, replacement of burning with alternative management tools, increased numbers of trees and scrub and reduced control of apex predators.  It’s to be hoped that, given the pressing need, land managers, incentivised by the regulatory environment, will be able to adapt in positive ways.

4: Pretty much all waterways in England are vulnerable to pollution in one way or another.  Regulation is not always effective given the challenges faced by the environment agency.  The ecology of the Gill Beck could be severely impacted even by isolated incidents.  Vigilance is required and a network of reporting observers would be a big advantage.

 5: There are always opportunities to engage with land managers to encourage wildlife-friendly practices.  It would also be nice to involve schools as potent agent of community engagement.  River monitoring would be a good focus for this.

Hawthorn in Gill Beck Valley

This image of the valley, taken from Lonk House Lane, comes from ‘A Celebration of Tong Park’ published by Baildon Historical Society. It’s credited to F Hainsworth and dates to about 1920. The war memorial must be quite new.

Looking at that image from a century ago, the most striking difference from today is how much more manicured the vegetation is compared to today.

2020: a slightly different angle from a little way down the path past the war memorial

In particular the ancient-looking Hawthorns which punctate every wall and field margin have clearly grown up since the end of the Great War.

Hawthorn on Hollins Hall side
More mature Hawthorn further up the valley at High Eldwick
Food for winter thrushes
Counting rings in the stumps of cut Hawthorns: they mostly seem to be about the same age and about 70-80 years old

I suspect that the photo at the top of the post marks a time when intensive grazing and management of the valley was tapering off. The wars of the 20th century will have taken away many of the men who worked on the land. Specifically, the generation of character Hawthorn which are such a feature probably got going during WWII.

The same may be true for WWI and many of the trees in the higher parts of Spring Wood…which look to be about 100 years old.

Gill Beck autumn update: Barn Owls, Whinchats, Green Woodpeckers and paths

To balance the previous serious post…here’s the positive stuff 🙂

The valley of the Gill Beck: we’ve said it before and it’s worth repeating -it’s a great thing in a slightly gloomy world that such a beautiful natural space remains on the doorstep of two large cities. Looking after this place is vitally-important to our well-being (Photo: Ros Crosland)

We’ve been plugging away at the paths and getting fitter (younger participants) or more cream-crackered (the middle-aged) in the process of wheelbarrowing tons of aggregate around.

The path below Spring Wood in it’s newly-engineered glory

We’ll be needing another delivery soon Richard!

And we continue to fight the torrent of litter, poop and general trash that gets left down there. Many thanks to the legendary Jeff Yates of Litter-free Guiseley for supply of bags.

All of the following pics were taken in the Gill Beck valley late summer and autumn:

Barn Owls have had a bonanza year locally. The wide roughs of the golf courses, the rough pasture at Tong Park and Baildon Moor are rich in voles (photo: Ros Crosland)
These days, it feels increasingly special to still have Swallows nesting in the valley. Happily there are still parts of the valley where pesticides aren’t (much) used and there are enough flying insects for them.
A juvenile Whinchat on the wires at Low Springs Farm:
this is another species rapidly decreasing in the UK as a whole (Photo: Ros Crosland)
Migrant Wheatears also at Low Springs Farm (Photo: Ros Crosland…….this is a beauty Ros!)
Juvenile Green Woodpecker (Photo: Ros Crosland). There’s a lot of standing dead wood in the various bits of woodland around the valley which is important for woodpeckers.
Oyster mushrooms sprouting in the colder weather this week
Lurid Bolete at Hollins Hall
Russian Comfrey also at Hollins Hall
Birds foot Trefoil at Tong Park is still in flower late September
Crosswort alongside the Beck
And finally…not going to win any photography prizes with this one but I wanted to include it because I’ve seen very few Hedgehogs in the valley over the past couple of years.

This week there are still lots of Chiffchaffs hanging around and a few Swallows and House Martins. Lots of Siskins, Redpolls and the occasional Crossbill have been moving through overhead. The male Goshawk normally resident in the Shipley area, which is presumed to be a escaped falconer’s bird occasionally visits us.

Gill Beck water quality issues

There’s been an upsurge of interest nationally and locally in the quality of water in our streams and rivers. Nationally, the Environment Agency report on 17th September revealed the depressing fact that all UK watercourses are polluted in one way or another.

Locally, Ilkley Clean River Campaign have been valiantly fighting the inertia of Yorkshire Water and the authorities to reduce the shocking amount of raw sewage dumped into the river where many people swim and paddle.

So, it’s perhaps not a surprise that we have our own issues. In case you were thinking that our pristine Beck was …well, pristine, it’s perhaps time to publicise the fact that there are at least two places that we’re aware of where raw, untreated sewage also enters the Gill Beck.

Combined sewer overflow (CSO) at Tong Park: the grey slime emanating from these CSOs is made up of billions of bacteria -many of them antibiotic-resistant and potentially disease-causing. This outflow pipe runs from Baildon and actually goes under the lake before entering the Beck.

CSOs are a consequence of the design of our waste water system -often dating back to the Victorian era. Excess rainfall is channelled into the same pipes as sewage. As a safety valve in times of intense rainfall there is built-in allowance for overflow to run straight off into streams and rivers. In reality this happens at times of intense rainfall……and also at other times….or, in some cases, most of the time!

Fixing this problem is a big challenge and, in reality, requires a vast infrastructure investment programme with political backing. This is an uphill battle in the face of large, well-connected, privately-owned and profit-orientated water companies. I stand to be corrected but my impression is there’s not much the environment agency can do when you or I ring to say ‘there’s sewage flowing into our Beck’….because, to a degree, that’s what’s supposed to happen.

This summer we’ve seen an enormous number of families out enjoying the wild bits of the valley and playing in the stream.

Other potential sources of pollution include farming and industry. Fortunately, we’re lucky that, to the best of my knowledge, the farmers along the Gill Beck valley are very good in this respect.

Last week, alarmingly, the Beck looked like this…

Silt from groundworks upstream making the Beck run brown: mid-September 2020

In contrast to its usual clarity:

A more normal state of water clarity in the Beck at Otley Road

This silt stemmed from construction works upstream. The issue isn’t quite as disastrous as serious slurry pollution but it’s still not great for the Beck ecosystem. Silt at this level adversely affects invertebrate populations by smothering them. Obviously, fewer invertebrates leads to fewer fish, birds, mammals and so on.

Privately, our view is that some works and development is inevitable with the number of people living in the area but there are relatively straightforward technical ways of reducing this kind of problem when work is planned in advance. Since the success of businesses involved in leisure and tourism relies largely on the valley being a beautiful natural environment we’re surprised that those involved weren’t more careful.

On a positive note, this summer has seen work start on the final fish passes which will allow migratory fish such as Salmon and Sea Trout to get up into the Aire above Leeds for the first time in over a century.

Smaller streams such as the Gill Beck are potential spawning grounds for these fish when they make it through. It’s really exciting to think that we could have Salmon spawning on our doorstep. It’s important the Beck is in decent shape for them. Happily, it’s mostly pretty good in comparison to other watercourses; we’ve seen Brown Trout up as far as the caravan park this summer. We regularly have Otters, Kingfishers and Dippers. However, the situation clearly needs watching.

If you have any concerns about pollution or water quality in the Beck then please get in touch. Together we can monitor the situation and take effective action when necessary.

The History of Tong Park

Many thanks to Peter Hughes for bringing this gem to our attention:

Published in 1995

That cover photo apparently dates from about 1925: a time when Denby’s Mill (now Tong Park Industrial Estate) was still a thriving industry.

The first chapter looks at the geology and pre-history of the area. The last two glaciations of the current Ice Age, the Anglian and Devensian, saw complex ice movements amid successive advances and retreats. At some point a moraine formed between ice in the valley of the Gill Beck and the Airedale glacier. This spur across the mouth of the valley is the site of Tong Park station and receives the southern end of the viaduct. The whole landscape is studded with smaller moraines, drumlins and erratic rocks.

Human presence is documented from about 4000 BC by the presence of stone age implements of the Magelmose culture. From about 3000 BC Bronze Age technology followed: with progressive forest clearance. Stone carvings which litter the area from this time.

Celtic Iron Age culture is known from Yorkshire only from about 300 BC.

With the principle ‘Inclosures’ Act of 1773 and other similar legislation across the centuries stone walls were built around ‘Parlimentary’ fields in the valley. These overly the earth ridges and furrows created by earlier farmers dating back to the Celts. The long S-shaped ridges are still visible on pasture and golf courses.

Ridge and furrow on Bradford Golf Course highlighted in melting snow: these earthworks may date back up to 2000 years.

At the ends of all of these fields are lynchet banks thrown up by the ploughs as they turned.

Weecher and Reva reservoirs, receiving run off from Burley and Ilkley moors, are the sources of the Gill Beck’s flow. Reva was completed in 1894.

Chapter two covers natural history: the list of species indicates little loss of diversity between the time of writing and today’s situation. In fact, I have the distinct impression that the valley is probably richer in flora and fauna today than it has been for much of the last century. It certainly looks considerably more wooded and wilder today than it does in many of the photos from the days when several thousand watched cricket matches at Tong Park. As Benedict Allen observes in his book ‘Rebirding’ ….’The post-industrial areas of Northern England have a very different aspect …In these areas vegetation freestyles in a way rarely permitted in any nature reserve or across much of the country….Here, less land is managed -and more is simply left’.

Chapter three documents the industrialisation of Tong Park. By 1778 there was a water mill on the site owned by messrs Halliday and Watson. Subsequently Thomas Gill upgraded this with the construction of Gill Mill. It’s unclear to me whether the name of the Beck derives from this.

William Denby and sons, incorporated in 1820, followed them and soon thereafter set about constructing the chain of upstream dams and reservoirs which ensured water supply to the factory. As well as the familiar main dam at Tong Park there are additionally the dam at the ‘frog pond’ on the north side of the beck, the Red Brick Dam below Moorside Farm, the New Dam on the Jum Beck above Hawksworth and the dam west of Ash House Farm, Sconce whose name remains unknown to me. At one time there was a large reservoir below the main dam and above the viaduct and enclosed by the bend in the beck.

Originally engaged in spinning, weaving and dyeing the business later progressively specialised in dyeing and fabric coatings. The tall chimney still nears the name ‘Denbirayne’: a patented waterproofed fabric.

The chimney of the former Denby Mills: photo by Paul Marfell (thanks Paul)

The book includes a lot of detail of the lives of the inhabitants of Tong during the heyday of the mill. The impression is of a tight-knit, self-contained community; almost all of whom worked at the mill or were related to those who did. The men played cricket and football in the valley, grew vegetables and kept pigs. The village gathered in the wesleyan methodist chapel (which also possessed a library) on Sundays, did their washing on Fridays and shopped in the Tong Park Street Co-op. They also swam in the lake at the dam. Many of the men went to fight in the world wars; frequently failing to return.

This loss which must have had a profound impact on the small community. A sadness compounded over subsequent decades by bitter industrial disputes and the ultimate decline of the textile industry. The main street was lined with terraced stone cottages which were demolished in the 1960s: a shame since they look very fine in photographs.

Can trout access the Gill Beck?

There has been concern that the ‘step’ down in the bed of the Gill Beck at the top of the underpass below the main Otley Road might be a barrier to movement of fish. Effectively this is like a small weir. Trouble is that rectifying it would likely be a substantial project.

Having just seen this video (second clip in tweet below), I’m encouraged that maybe they can make it up anyway.

Something is happening with the Hazelnuts

Well, it’s been a complete bonanza of Hazelnuts this autumn. In addition to the native Hazel there are also lots of planted Cobnut trees around the Hollins Hill golf course which will now be about 20 years old.

Ripening Cob (Hazel) nut

Until this year I had never seen a brown Hazel or Cobnut on a tree in the valley. But something has happened: this autumn they are everywhere. Last year was quite good. This year has been a bonanza.

Maybe it’s the weather. Maybe it’s the maturing of the trees.

The more intriguing possibility is that something has happened to reduce Grey Squirrel numbers. There are still plenty of them obviously…..on every camera trap I’ve set! But perhaps they’re not so completely ubiquitous.

If populations of Pine Martens can mysteriously appear in the New Forest and Cornwall; miles from anywhere they were supposed to be….

Then it doesn’t seem too much of a stretch that we could be within dispersal range of the breeding population in Shropshire (about 150 miles away):

Or of those in the North York Moors (only 50 miles away):

Indeed, there is a single record from Derbyshire in 2018:

And a handful from Lancashire too:

Individual North American martens may disperse up to 190Km and similar long distance movements probably occur in Europe:

I shall be doing more camera traps this winter!

It’s been a bit wet!

But there’s always a silver lining. In this case a lot of mushrooms in the valley. Like the trees, although the land use has changed some of the fungal organisms must have been soldiering on underground regardless.

Field Blewit in grassland. What would have been unimproved meadow is now golf fairway.
The lilac stem distinguishes from similar species: Field Blewit is a good edible mushroom that usually appears after the first few really cold nights
Oyster mushrooms: can appear at any time of year but, around here, mostly in Oct-Dec
Meadow puffball: there are some huge mushroom rings uo to 50 metres across on the south-facing slopes of the valley which must be centuries old. Several fungi are responsible including these beauties.
Troops of Fly Agaric are all over. We’ve been testing these out as fly traps: a small lump in a saucer of milk on top of a cupboard will intoxicate a fair number.
Princess mushroom: Agaricus lanipes
Clouded Funnel
Death cap: there are several patches in the valley where they crop up. All under Oak.
I won’t bore you with too many brown ones but this is Common Cavalier

Maples and Elms

There are numerous planted trees around the golf courses in the valley: mostly Hazel, Birch, Rowan and Ash.  Along the crumbling remnants of the ancient stone walls which crisscross the landscape between the fairways are an older generation of native trees.

maple upper
There are quite a few Field Maples hidden around the margins of the ancient field system which pre-dates the golf courses. This is the grandest: a geriatric who must be a couple of centuries old.
Characteristically, the bark is extravagantly gnarled.
The ‘keys’ are rather charmingly pink tinted.
It’s nice to see that there is at least one young tree bursting from the wall close by.

Similarly, Wych Elm doesn’t stand out like the big Oak, Ash and Beech but, when you start looking at each tree in turn along the walls you find there are plenty of medium -sized individuals.

I presume that any larger Elms will have succumbed to Dutch Elm Disease.  However, there are plenty of smaller specimens like this one behind the upper erratic boulder on the Hawksworth side.
The leaves are larger than on ‘English Elm’ but have the same asymmetric base.

Project Pied Flycatcher

In an echo of the global day of environmental demonstrations, we spent the day in the valley rigging up bird and bat boxes. The weather was idyllic, nobody fell out of any trees and Keith’s dance-floor injury didn’t hold him back.

The bird boxes all have hole sizes to suit Redstarts and Pied Flycatchers: both of which have bred in Spring Wood in the past and continue to do so within a few miles.

Mike tackles a bat box. Ladder, nails, hammer…what could possibly go wrong?
The bat boxes are constructed from joists which were formerly part of Roger’s roof
Whereas the bird boxes are a bit more professional
Richard and John in action
Spring Wood, Mike and John all looking beautiful in September sunshine
How would any self-respecting Flycatcher not want to nest in there?